Like Sands Through the Hourglass.... !

Would you believe this beautiful tchochke is made entirely of trash?! With a little scrap wood, a couple of empty bottles, and a lot of imagination you can make a beautiful hourglass as a gift to remember a special time with someone, or for yourself, to time your eggs in the morning! Miss Ginger has spent some time perfecting this technique, and this example is her latest creation.  This one is pretty large, with the glass elements coming from 2 large magnum wine bottles.  Boy G created all of the pieces for her on his new lathe, but you could also adapt this technique to use precut discs from the craft store and some rescued spindles from a thrift store chair. Miss Ginger left this one plain, but you could also personalize it with nifty paint job or some etching on the glass. Her one regret on this design is that she used white sand from the craft store, and added blue and silver glitter to make it sparkly, and it kind of looks like she is counting the minutes with powdered laundry detergent! 

It's glued in there now, so there's no going back! Here's another one she made, with step-by-step instructions:

The first step is to find 2 matching bottles  and cut the bottoms off. Depending on the shape of your bottles, you may need to cut the neck back, as well.  These Zing-Zang bottles have served Miss G well, and now, they will be with her for eternity! 

To connect the bottles, Boy G made this little wooden piece by using a hole saw to cut a disc, and then used a forstner bit in the drill to make the indentations. Miss Ginger thinks you could probably find a napkin ring that would work if this is beyond your skills. 

Here are all of her parts, ready for assembly. In addition to the 2 bottles and the connector, she has 3 spindles and 2 discs that Boy G made on the lathe. The discs have a channel cut that the bottle fits into. You can cut out the discs with a large hole saw, and cut the channel with a smaller one. There are also holes drilled for the spindles, which required Miss Ginger to recall her high school geometry! Click here to learn how to find 3 equidistant points on the circumference of a circle! 

Beginning at the bottom, glue the glass element to the base by filling the channel with E6000 Adhesive, and then placing the glass. You'll need to let this dry before you move on. E6000 is the perfect adhesive for this because it bonds well to both glass and wood, levels itself and fills the void between the glass and the wood, and dries rock hard and crystal clear. And, it's made in the great state of Louisiana! 

The connector goes on next. Once that's dry, you can add the other bottle on top. Be sure that you don't get adhesive in the hole of your connector or your hourglass will be frozen in time! 

Use wood glue to set the spindles into holes on the base piece.  Let everything get good and dry at this point

Once all of the glue has dried, it's time to fill and calibrate your hourglass.  Miss Ginger used regular garden sand in this one, which she had sifted several times to get all the pebbles out of it. You can also use colored sand from the craft store or an aquarium supply store.  (Now that she has perfected the assembly technique, Miss Ginger is going to experiment with different types of filler and different size holes to see if she gets different run times!)

Start a stopwatch and begin pouring sand into the upper chamber.  As the sand runs through, keep adding sand until you get close to your desired time.  Miss G filled this one for 3 minutes.

Once you have filled it, flip the whole thing over into a bowl and let the sand run out, to double check your timing.  This also gives you the opportunity to remove some sand if you overpoured the first time.

Once you have the correct amount of sand, pour it back in and let it run to the bottom.  Fill the channel in the upper disc with adhesive, and apply wood glue to the holes for the spindles. Working quickly, place the top onto the glass, guiding the spindles into their holes.  Once the top is in place, flip the hourglass over to let the adhesive level out and harden.  (If you don't flip it over, the glue will slowly run down the glass and ruin your work.) Let it dry completely, and your heirloom is ready for giving or using! 

BTW, if your skills with wood and glass are limited, you can get a similar effect using plastic bottles and foam board. 

Trading Spaces!

Miss Ginger has spent a lot of time showing you her beautiful craft space inside the house, so she decided it's long overdue to show you the space Boy G made for himself in the extra bay of the garage!  He's been spending a lot of time out there lately, and that's why he hasn't been keeping this blog updated like he should! Now's the time to "write that wrong!" (Did you see what he just did there?! Try the veal, folks- he's here all week! )

Boy G built this sturdy workbench to give himself plenty of space for working up top, plus lots of room down below for storage.  The big tools are all arranged in an "L" shape along the wall behind it, and across the opening of the bay door. 

All of those tools generate lots of sawdust, but most dust collectors are large and would waste way too much space, but Boy G didn't want to have to drag a shop vac from tool to tool, either.

His solution was to use a wall-mounted shop vac like this one, and to use 1- 1/2 inch PVC pipe to permanently route the suction to each tool.  He knew PVC would work, since that what is used in the house's central vacuum system, but he needed to be able to control the flow of air at each tool, since the shop vac can only create enough suction to clear one tool at a time.  Another dilemma:  the blast gates designed to go on regular shop equipment are too large for this PVC jury rig.

Miss Ginger to the rescue! That girl loves to shop, and she found these PVC valves at the home center, and they work perfectly! Boy G opens just the one on the tool he is using, and the full suction of the shop vac pulls the dust away! 

The other problem Boy G quickly discovered is that the filters on shop vacs clog very quickly with that much sawdust moving across them.

The answer is this little gem, attached to the top of a 5 gallon bucket! The Dust Deputy is fitted between the shop vac and the PVC running to the tools, and it uses the principles of a cyclone to to remove the sawdust from the airstream before the air reaches the filters. Maximum suction all the time and no clogged filters- ingenious! The Dust Deputy definitely earns Miss Ginger's coveted: 

5 LIPSTICKS AWARD!

Boy G also added this little treasure to his collection- the Jet 10141 Mini Lathe.  It's just a little fella compared to a normal woodworking lathe, but it's perfect for spinning wood into all sorts of FABULOUS pieces for Miss Ginger's projects.  It is solid as a rock, and really fun to use! 





Stay tuned to see what kind of "trash to treasure" trinkets the G's have teamed up to create! 

Transitional Lamps for Any Decor!

Miss Ginger is appalled by the price stores are getting for good table lamps these days! The cheap ones available at Target look cheap, and the decent ones found at Ikea are decidedly modern, which is great if that's your decor. Momma G gave Ginger some pretty good advice about lamps. "Always buy them in pairs," she said, "even if you don't use them in the same room. Someday you will move or redecorate, and you'll wish you had two of something you can never match! 

After a long search for a decent pair to no avail, Miss Ginger decided to make her own.  Literally, this pair of lamps (above) was made from scraps of lumber!  The lamp kits cost about 10 bucks at Lowe's, and the shades came from Target, for 14.99 each! Miss Ginger chose a gold-leaf finish for her rather traditional decor, but you can finish them any way you'd like, from rustic to formal! Here's how she made them, with Boy G's help on the power tools! 

She started with scraps of 1x2 poplar, and cut them with mitered corners to 8" on the long side. This measurement can be adjusted to make any size square or rectangle you desire, to create a short lamp like these, a tall buffet lamp, or even a floor lamp from a very long rectangle. She also cut 2 scraps of 1x4 for each base.Again, you can adjust the size of your base to make a taller lamp more stable. Here are all of her parts, along with a lamp kit for each lamp.  

To make the "tunnel" for the wire, Boy G ran each piece through the router table to cut a 1/2 channel, about 1/4 inch deep, in each piece.

A straight fence and a feather board make sure that each piece is cut in exactly the same way, so they will mate up later. 

To begin the assembly, Miss Ginger used corner clamps to glue 2 pieces into an "L" shape. 

She continued gluing, until she had created 8 "L"s. Once the glue dried on the last "L"s, she paired them into 4 squares.

While the glue was drying on her "L's" she created her bases by gluing 2 lengths of 1x4 together, and finishing them with black satin spray paint. She distressed the corners with sandpaper, and topped them off with a coat of polyurethane. A hole in the center accommodates the wire. When the squares were dry, she paired them up and drilled a hole at the top and the bottom to create notches for the cord and the socket.

Here are the parts for one lamp.

Assembly is easy.  Miss G ran the cut end of the cord from the lamp kit up through the bottom of the base.  She pulled enough wire through the base to follow the channel, leaving about 3-4 inches at the top.  The rest of the cord, and the plug, stays below the base.

Your lamp kit will come with a short threaded tube that holds the socket, but it may be too short to hold what you need. You can buy a small kit with an assortment of threaded rods if you need a longer one.

The kit also comes with a solid spacer that threads onto the tube.  Miss Ginger screwed the spacer onto the tube, allowing it to sit flush with the top of the lamp, and holding the cord in place against the bottom of the channel.

She covered the pre-finished base with paper to protect it from glue, and used wood glue to join the 2 squares together, sandwiching the threaded tube at the top, and clamping for a secure bond.

After the glue dried, she marked, drilled, and countersunk screws from the bottom, through the base and into the square, making sure she kept the screws away from the channel containing the cord.  A felt pad glued over the bottom covers the unfinished side of the base, holds the cord in place, and protects the surface below the lamp from scratches. All that's left is attaching the sockets at the top, following the instructions from the kit.

They they are, ready for paint, stain, or any other finish your artistic imagination can create!  Stay tuned for a future post, when Miss Ginger will show you how she used metal leafing to give her lamps an old world look! 

An Occasional Table for All Occasions!

Miss Ginger has often wondered why the furniture industry calls them "occasional" tables.  Do they think we only use them "occasionally?" Or only on "special" occasions? These do-it-all tables are usually the most-used tables in our homes, serving as a place to set your morning coffee, your evening cocktail, and many other important sundries one may wish to keep at hand! 

They range from very cheap to very, very, expensive and range in size from a tiny end table to an enormous oversized cocktail table. Whatever size, they are usually the wrong size! 


Miss Ginger ran into this problem when looking for a sofa table to go behind a large sectional set in her family room... not really a piece she would have chosen, but it works in the room, is well-made, and paid-for:  three important factors in Miss G's decision process.  Since she couldn't find a sofa table to suit her, she had Boy G make one for her.  She also needed a table for the embroidery machine in her craft room, and she was so intrigued by the process that she thought she would share it with you! These tables are made with dimensional lumber, available at Lowe's or Home Depot.  The embroidery table is made of poplar, and the sofa table is pine, with edge glued shelving boards for the top.

Unfortunately, she didn't do as well as she intended at photographing the process, but she is going to piece it together so you get the drift. The photos are actually from both of the different tables, and are not sequential, so please bear with me! 

This little workhorse is the tool that makes the process so easy.  Called a "plate joiner" or "biscuit joiner", the machine cuts little slots into the edge of wood, creating a pocket for a manufactured "biscuit" of wood that multiplies the surface for glue to hold.  This allows one to create solid furniture with butt joints, eliminating mortises and tenons and other anatomical nightmares that "ain't nobody got time for!" And the best news?  They are not expensive!  This one is a cheapy from Harbor Freight Tools that Boy G bought as an experiment to see how much he would use it. It works okay, but the the guide fence is plastic and flexes, causing some alignment problems. Plus, the motor is cheap and gets very hot, and the dust pickup is poorly designed.

As a treat, Miss Ginger is going to replace it for him with this one from Ryobi, that has a metal fence, an upright design,  and a much larger dust outlet that can connect to a shop vac.  Best of all?  It's only $99!  That's less than the cost of an end table at Ikea! 

Using the biscuit joiner is a breeze.  First, Boy G cut the 1x6 boards for the tabletop to the same length, and laid them side-by-side to make the dimensions of the table. 

Once he was satisfied with the layout, he marked the boards to make the joints.

There is not a lot of fuss to marking the boards... just a straight line across the joint does the trick.  They are spaced "eyeball even" along the length of the joint; the measurements don't have to be exact because everything is invisible when finished.

Each slot is cut by aligning the center mark on the fence of the tool with the mark on the board. Then start the motor, push the tool along it's track, and.....

voila! A straight slot, perfectly sized for your biscuit.  The biscuits come in three standard sizes, and the machines have a simple dial to set the depth of the cut for the size biscuit you are using.  

The biscuits are an engineering marvel in themselves.  They are pressed from multiple plies of wood with a die that cuts them to shape, stamps them with an allover pattern of X's, and compresses the wood.  The X's create more surface to catch more glue, and the plies are turned with their grain running opposite directions, making an extremely strong connector. Water-based wood glues make the wood swell, creating an even stronger bond.  Truly, genius! 

Here is the layout of the boards for the embroidery table, with the biscuits, ready for gluing.

You'll need bar clamps for edge gluing. They are relatively cheap, and their use is pretty straightforward. The bottom face slides up and down the track in little notched increments to the approximate width of the piece, and the the screw-handle tightens it the rest of the way.  Use a scrap of wood between the clamp faces and your project to prevent dents, especially with soft woods.

Using carpenter's glue and a small brush, Boy G applied glue to the inside of each slot, and then to one half of each biscuit.  Once all the biscuits were in place, he added glue to the other half of the biscuit, as well as all along the edge of the board, and into the slots of the board on the other side of the joint. 

With all the glue in place, he used 4 bar clamps to pull it all tight- 2 clamps on the bottom, and 2 on top, to prevent curling.  Using a damp paper towel, he wiped up the glue that seeped out, to minimize sanding later. 

While the top was drying, Boy G cut the legs from 1x4 stock to the height he wanted, less the thickness of the top. He wanted a 35" tall table, and his top was 3/4" thick, so the legs are 34-1/4" long. Using a table saw set at 45 degrees, he bevelled the edges of the 8 pieces to make 4 legs.

The bevelled edges are glued together, and Boy G used painters tape to hold them tight while they dried, because we couldn't figure out a way to clamp them, and they won't bear any lateral force.

Here are the "bones" of the sofa table, showing how the apron is built. 

Using the biscuit joiner, he created the 2 end pieces, using 2 of the glued-up legs and 2 short pieces 1x4.  Once the glue on the end pieces dried, he used 2 long pieces to connect them, forming the front and back of the apron.  Finally, he used four pieces of 1x4 at the ends, and again in the middle, to add stability and create a surface for connecting the top. For simplicity, he finished the top and the leg structure separately and joined them after they dried by driving a screw up from the bottom of the cross pieces into the bottom of the top.  Store bought levelers protect the floor underneath and make it easy to correct any wobbles tiny cutting inaccuracies.

Because Miss G wanted the sofa table to look as old as the house, Boy G created a distressed finish by using 2 colors of stain and a couple of coats of polyurethane.

Minwax Wood Finish is Miss G's go-to product for all things wood.  Boy G started the finish with a coat of Wood Finish in English Walnut.  After that dried, he applied a coat of satin finish Fast-Drying Polyurethane with a foam brush. After the poly has dried, he used a chain and an old saw blade to distress the wood, effectively breaking the poly seal in various places on the surface.  Next, he wiped on a coat of Wood Finish in Ebony, and immediately wiped it off with a clean cloth, leaving color only in the indentions created by distressing. Once the stain dried, he finished with a coat a poly, a fine grit sand, and a final coat of poly. 

The finish looks ancient, even though this wood was on the racks a Lowe's just a few days earlier! 

Looks pretty awesome, no? 

And here is the embroidery table, which Boy G built to surround a rolling storage cart that can be pulled out for more work surface.  It has a satin poly finish applied directly to the bare wood.

You can make this parson's style table to any size or shape you wish, and finish it however you want, for way less than $100 worth of materials in most cases!